Electric motos have no oil changes, no carbs, no valve clearances. But that doesn't mean zero maintenance. Here's everything you actually need to stay on top of.
After Every Ride
*Clean the bike.* Pressure washing is fine but keep the jet away from motor bearings, the controller vent (if yours has one), and the charge port. A garden hose and a brush does the job without the risk.
*Check the charge port.* Mud and water in the charge port is one of the most common causes of charging failure. Keep a rubber cap on it when not charging. Blow it out with compressed air if you rode in the wet.
*Inspect the chain.* Clean and lube after every muddy ride. A dirty chain wears sprockets fast. Use a wet chain lube in damp conditions, dry wax lube in dry conditions. Never use WD-40 as a chain lube — it strips existing lube and leaves nothing behind.
Weekly (or Every 5 Rides)
*Check tyre pressure.* Front 15–18 psi for trail, rear 14–16 psi. Too low and you risk pinch flats and rim damage on square-edge hits. Too high and you lose traction in corners.
*Torque the axle bolts.* Front 25–30 Nm, rear 40–50 Nm (check your model's spec). Loose axle bolts cause premature bearing wear and — in extreme cases — wheel departure. Check after the first few rides following any wheel removal.
*Inspect brake pads.* Most e-moto brake pads show a wear groove. When the rotor contact surface is flush with the groove, replace them. Riding on worn pads destroys rotors — a pad set costs €15; a rotor costs €60+.
*Inspect brake fluid.* Squeeze the lever — it should feel firm with no sponginess. If it's mushy, you have air in the system or degraded fluid. Bleed every 6 months minimum, or any time the feel changes.
Monthly
*Check the battery connector.* Pull the main discharge plug and inspect for corrosion or heat discolouration. A blackened or pitted contact means arcing — replace the connector before it causes a fault. Reconnect and apply a light coating of dielectric grease.
*Inspect phase wires.* Run your fingers along the three motor phase wires from the controller to the motor. Look for chafing against the frame, cracked insulation, or connectors that have started to back out. Chafed phase wires cause intermittent cutouts and, in worst cases, short circuits.
*Grease pivot points.* Linkage bearings, swingarm pivot, and footpeg pivots. Use a waterproof bearing grease. Squeaking from any pivot means it's too dry — address it before the bearing corrodes seized.
*Check all fasteners.* Go around the bike with the correct-size hex key and lightly check every fastener: motor mount bolts, frame bolts, handlebar clamp, brake caliper bolts. Use threadlock on anything that keeps coming loose.
Every 3–6 Months
*Clean and inspect the controller.* Remove the cover if accessible. Look for corrosion on capacitor legs, burned traces, or heat discolouration on MOSFET areas. A light blast of contact cleaner on the board and a check that the thermal paste between the controller case and heat-transfer plate is still present.
*Inspect the battery enclosure seals.* Most aftermarket and OEM packs use foam or rubber seals at the lid. Compression-set seals let moisture in. Replace if the seal no longer springs back when you release it.
*Fork service.* Dust seals accumulate grit that scores the stanchions. Pop the dust seals, clean behind them, and add a small amount of suspension fluid. Full oil changes: every 50 hours of hard trail use.
*Check spoke tension.* Even though e-motos use stronger rear hubs than bicycles, spoke tension still walks on repeated hard landings. A spoke wrench and nipple check takes five minutes and prevents wheel taco events.